Hemelsdaeleroute

The walk begins at Saint Andrew’s Church in Woumen. The history of the site goes back to a wooden place of worship from the late 11th century. The church was destroyed during the religious unrest of 1583 and restored at the beginning of the 17th century.

During the First World War, German troops used the tower as an observation post. In the devastated landscape it became an obvious target, and the church was eventually destroyed completely. It was rebuilt after the war. Fire struck again in 1985, destroying the interior and leaving only the outer walls, tower and sacristies intact.

From the village, the route first follows residential streets towards the Steenstraat. This long, straight road has a much older history than its modern appearance suggests. In the Roman period, it formed part of a secondary route connected to the road between Boulogne-sur-Mer and Cologne. It remained an important thoroughfare during the Middle Ages.

This was the part of the walk I found least interesting. There is quite a long stretch on paved roads, and it does not yet feel like the most rewarding part of the route. That gradually changes as you approach Klerken and the surroundings become quieter.

Along the Steenstraat, the route passes close to the Predikboom site. During the First World War, the Germans positioned a 38 cm Krupp gun here. From April 1915, it fired mainly towards Dunkirk, roughly 38 kilometres away.

The concrete base still survives behind a farm at Steenstraat 38, but it stands on private property and cannot be visited. It is an unusual reminder of the military history hidden in what is now a very peaceful landscape.

The walk then continues via Klerkenstraat and Hoge-Kamstraat, where the route becomes much more enjoyable. At around 37 metres, the Hoge Kam is the highest point in Diksmuide. From the ridge there are wide views across the Krekedal and the Yser valley. In clear weather, you can see much farther, towards the coast, the Wijnendale plateau and the hills of the Westhoek and French Flanders.

At the end of the Hoge Kam stands a small wayside chapel dating from 1848 and rebuilt after the First World War. Locally it is known as the Krukkenkapel, or ‘Crutches Chapel’. According to local tradition, Francine Despeghel came here to pray every day and hung her crutches in the chapel after her recovery.

Kruisstraat leads towards the long driveway of Hemelsdaelehoeve. A Cistercian community for women was founded on this site in 1237 after Elisabeth van Steenvoorde donated her estate at Esen to the Abbey of Marquette near Lille.

In 1242, the community received permission to hold religious services, although the parish of Esen retained certain rights connected with burials and offerings.

The monastery remained at Esen for only 33 years. The community later moved to Zillebeke, Werken and Diksmuide before eventually settling in Bruges. The land at Esen remained connected with the abbey, and the name Hemelsdaele continued to be used. It refers to the valley between the ridges of Esen and Klerken.

Today, the farm at the end of its long driveway remains a quiet reminder of this medieval history.

On the return towards Woumen, the route passes the Warandekapel, formerly known as the Roompot chapel. A small Marian chapel already stood here before the First World War, and historic maps show a chapel on the site as far back as the 18th century.

A simple concrete chapel was built after the war, but it later had to make way for the widening of the provincial road. The present, larger chapel was built in 1948.

From the Warande, the route gradually returns to Woumen and Saint Andrew’s Church. For me, it is the second half of the loop, particularly the Hoge Kam and the quieter country roads around Esen and Klerken, that gives this walk most of its appeal.