Kemmel Junction Walk

I start at the Command Bunker at the foot of Kemmelberg. Heading past De Lork, you soon reach the woodland, where the route becomes quieter and greener.

The Lettenberg bunkers appear not long afterwards. Four concrete shelters dating from 1917 survive here. They served as entrances to a British underground headquarters complex dug into the hillside. During the German offensive of April 1918, the bunkers fell into German hands and at least one was later used as a medical post.

Dense fog hung between the trees during my walk, adding even more atmosphere around the bunkers. Even in clear weather, however, I find this a strong start to the walk.

From Lettenberg, the route climbs farther through the woodland of Kemmelberg. In several places, the ground remains noticeably uneven. Beneath the trees, traces of the heavy First World War fighting are still visible, especially from the battles of April 1918.

At the summit stands Den Engel, the large French memorial unveiled in 1932 in memory of the French troops who fought here. Farther down the western slope lies the Ossuaire français.

The remains of 5,294 French servicemen lie here in four mass graves, and only 57 were identified. I almost always stop here for a moment. It is not only the scale of the site that makes an impression, but also the contrast with the surrounding landscape. On clear days, the views stretch far across Heuvelland; during my walk, almost everything disappeared into the fog.

After Kemmelberg, the walk heads towards Dranouter and the surroundings become quieter again. Along Lettingstraat, you pass the memorial to Karel Pavlík. The Czechoslovak pilot served with RAF 313 Squadron and crashed his Spitfire here on 5 May 1942 during the air battle known as Circus 157.

A little farther on, I noticed a much smaller memorial in the field to Alcide Watry, who, according to the inscription, was killed here on 25 April 1918. I had never seen it before, despite the countless times I have walked in this area.

That is exactly what I enjoy about Heuvelland. Even on familiar roads and paths, there is always another story to discover. A small memorial you have overlooked for years can suddenly change the way you look at the landscape around it.

Farther on, the walk changes character again. Near junction 96, a quieter path follows the Lindebeek. After wet weather, it can become very muddy, with a short boardwalk helping you across one of the wetter sections.

You then reach Wijngoed Monteberg. From here, I chose not to stay entirely on the junction network and took an alternative footpath through the fields and beside a small nature area. For me, that makes this section more interesting: you leave the wider roads behind and the walk feels more immersed in the landscape again.

The path eventually rejoins the route towards junction 72. In clear weather, this is one of my favourite places to pause for the view towards France. The fog limited visibility to only a few hundred metres during this walk, but it gave the hills their own atmosphere. Junctions 2 and 3 then take you back to the Command Bunker.